Three different sewing machine needles for sewing lingerie and intimates
Sewing machine needles for lingerie and preventing pesky skipped stitches!
Choosing the right sewing machine needle is an important small detail that makes a big difference when sewing lingerie. Lingerie fabrics are often delicate, stretchy, and fine. Using the wrong needle can cause skipped stitches, runs, holes, or pulled threads. The right needle will glide through the fabric and support smooth, even stitching.
When sewing lingerie fabrics like lightweight knits, stretch lace, silk, mesh, or fine jersey, you want needles that can penetrate without damaging or distorting the fabric.
Here are the best options to use depending on your garment and fabric type:
Stretch needle
Ballpoint needle / Jeresy needle
Microtex (sharp) needle
Stretch needles
Stretch needles are one of the best choices for most lingerie sewing because they are designed for knit and stretch fabrics. Stretch needles have a specifically designed scarf (indented groove that runs down the back of a sewing machine needle, just above the eye) to prevent skipped stitches. Stretch needles are especially helpful when sewing garments where the fabric stretches significantly while being sewn.
Best for
Fabrics with elastane or spandex
Stretch lace
Mesh
Swimwear and activewear fabrics
Very fine or highly elastic lingerie fabrics
Use sizes
75/11 or 80/12 are common and work well for most stretch lingerie fabrics
Ballpoint / Jersey Needles
Ballpoint needles are similar to stretch needles and are specifically intended for knit fabrics. They have a slightly rounded tip to protect loops and prevent runs. Ballpoint needles generally perform well when the fabric has moderate stretch and good recovery without being very elastic.
Best for
Cotton jersey
Merino jersey without high elastane content
Interlock knits
Rib knits
Use sizes
75/11 and 80/12 are common and work well for most stretch lingerie fabrics
Microtex (Sharp) Needles
Microtex needles, also called sharp needles, have a very fine, precise point that makes them ideal for fine woven fabrics that need clean, accurate stitching.
Best for
Fine silk satin or charmeuse
Lightweight woven fabrics
Lingerie with delicate trims
Use sizes
60/8 or 70/10 for very fine fabrics
How to choose a needle for your project
If your fabric has a high elastic content, opt for a stretch needle. A stretch needle is my preference as I find most stretch lingerie fabrics have a high stretch, high lycra content.
If your content has less elastic, but is still stretchy, use a ballpoint.
If you are sewing a woven fine silk or satin use a microtex needle.
To choose the weight: the finer the fabric the smaller the needle number. I prefer a 70-75 for all of my lingerie projects as I find an 80 is slightly too big for fine lingerie fabrics.
Final thoughts
Before you begin sewing, always test your fabric with your chosen needle. This helps ensure the needle type and size are suitable for the fabric and stitch you are using.
If you notice skipped stitches, uneven stitching, or other issues while sewing, the first thing to try is changing the needle type. Different fabrics respond better to different needles, and a small change can make a big difference.
If you have been using the same needle for a while and problems suddenly appear, replacing the needle with a fresh one is often an easy fix. Sewing needles gradually dull with use, even if they look fine to the eye.
A common rule of thumb is to change your needle every six hours of sewing. While many people do not strictly follow this guideline due to cost, it is still a useful reference. Regularly changing your needle can prevent frustration and help maintain smooth, consistent stitching throughout your project.
Happy sewing!