Three different types of elastic for finishing lingerie and intimates

Elastic for quality lingerie finishes

One of the most enjoyable parts of sewing your own lingerie and intimates is choosing the trims. Trims are where personality and creativity really come into play. With the right combination of fabric and elastic, you can transform a simple pattern into something truly distinctive. There is a wide world of colourful, delicate and playful trims available and learning how to choose quality options will make a noticeable difference to both the look and comfort of your finished garment.

In this article, I will cover three commonly used lingerie trims that I personally enjoy using and what qualities to look for when purchasing each one.

The three trims covered in this article are

• Picot elastic

• Fold over elastic

• Lace elastic

Picot elastic

Picot elastic is one of the most commonly used trims in lingerie sewing. It features small decorative loops along one edge, which are designed to peek out slightly when sewn onto a garment. Picot elastic is often used on leg openings, waistbands and underbust areas.

When choosing picot elastic, look for a soft underside that will sit comfortably against the skin. The decorative edge should be evenly formed and not overly stiff. Good quality picot elastic stretches smoothly and recovers well without curling or twisting. Picot elastic works particularly well for everyday underwear and classic lingerie styles.

Fold over elastic

Fold over elastic, often referred to as FOE, is a versatile trim that encases the raw edge of fabric. It is folded in half over the fabric edge and stitched in place, creating a clean and stretchy finish. Fold over elastic is commonly used on necklines, armholes and leg openings.

When selecting fold over elastic, check that the centre fold is clearly defined and easy to work with. The elastic should feel soft and flexible rather than thick or rubbery. Good quality fold over elastic stretches evenly and lies flat when sewn. This trim is ideal for lightweight lingerie and garments where you want a smooth, modern finish without added bulk.

Lace elastic

Lace elastic combines decorative lace with built in stretch, making it both functional and visually appealing. It is often used for waistbands, leg openings and decorative panels. Lace elastic can instantly elevate a garment and add a more romantic or dramatic feel.

What to look for when purchasing elastic

Stretch and recovery are two of the most important qualities to check when purchasing elastics. When you gently pull on the elastic, it should stretch easily and then return to its original shape. This bounce back is a sign of good recovery. Elastics with poor recovery may appear fine at first but can ripple or lose their shape once sewn into a garment.

When purchasing lace elastic, examine the lace pattern for consistency and strength. The elastic portion should stretch and recover well without distorting the lace design. High quality lace elastic feels soft and supple, not stiff or scratchy. This trim is best suited for garments where aesthetics are just as important as comfort.

Comfort against the skin is equally important. Lingerie is worn close to the body, often for long periods of time, so trims should feel soft and pleasant. Some elastics, particularly picot elastic, have a brushed or fluffy underside designed to sit comfortably against the skin. Lower quality elastics may feel rough or scratchy, so it is always worth checking the texture when possible.

Sheen is another factor to consider. Over time, you will develop an eye for whether a trim has a smooth, even lustre or a dull and inconsistent finish. A good quality elastic usually has a subtle sheen that looks intentional rather than shiny or plasticky.

If you are shopping online and cannot see or feel the elastic in person, do not hesitate to contact the store owner with questions. Smaller suppliers and specialist bra making or lingerie stores often provide excellent customer service and detailed product knowledge, which can help you make more informed choices.

Final thoughts

Choosing the right trims is a key part of successful lingerie sewing. High quality elastics not only improve the appearance of your garment but also contribute to comfort, durability and fit. By paying attention to stretch, recovery, texture and finish, you can build a small but reliable collection of trims that will support a wide range of projects. With experience, selecting elastics becomes an intuitive and enjoyable part of the creative process, allowing you to bring your personal style into every piece you sew.

If you want to learn more about sewing lingerie, check out my next articles:

• What type of thread to use when sewing lingerie and intimates

• What kind of sewing machine do I need to make lingerie and intimates?

• Three different sewing machine needles for sewing lingerie and intimates

Happy sewing!