What kind of sewing machine do I need to make lingerie?

The three types of sewing machines I recommend after 10 years making lingerie.

You do not need very much to start sewing your own lingerie and underwear. In fact, lingerie is surprisingly accessible to make because it does not require a large workspace and uses relatively small amounts of fabric. This makes it an ideal category for home sewing. The only truly essential tool you need to get started is a sewing machine.

There are three types of domestic machines that are particularly useful for sewing lingerie at home.

• A domestic sewing machine

• An overlocker (serger)

• A coverstitch machine

To begin sewing lingerie at home, all you need is a domestic sewing machine that has a zig zag stitch. This alone will allow you to construct and finish a wide range of lingerie styles. As you progress on your lingerie sewing journey, you may choose to add an overlocker, and for those who want a very polished and professional finish, a coverstitch machine can be a later investment.

A domestic sewing machine will usually have several stitch options that are useful for lingerie sewing:

• Straight stitch

• Zig zag stitch

• Three step zig zag stitch

• Stretch stitch

Straight stitch

A straight stitch can be used for vertical seams such as darts and side seams. As long as the seam is not required to stretch significantly and is not under constant tension, a straight stitch works well. This stitch is best reserved for areas where the garment relies more on shaping than stretch.

Zig zag stitch

The zig zag stitch is one of the most important stitches for lingerie sewing. It is commonly used for attaching picot elastic, waistband elastic, fold over elastic, stretch lace trims, and lace appliqué. It can also be used to hem stretch fabrics or as an alternative to an overlocked seam. By setting the zig zag stitch very small and dense, you can also create a bar tack style stitch, which is useful for reinforcing areas that experience high stress.

Three step zig zag stitch

A three step zig zag stitch is often used for sewing waistband elastic and fold over elastic. This stitch allows the elastic to stretch without breaking the thread, making it very comfortable to wear. Not all sewing machines include this stitch, so it is simply an option to use if it is available on your machine.

Stretch stitch

If your sewing machine includes a stretch stitch, it can be used for vertical seams in place of an overlocker. This stitch is designed to stretch with the fabric while maintaining strength, making it well suited to lingerie and underwear construction.

Overlocker

If you own an overlocker, it can be used for many lingerie construction tasks including sewing vertical seams, attaching waistbands, hemming garments, and finishing raw edges. Overlockers create strong, flexible seams and a clean interior finish, which is ideal for garments worn close to the body.

Coverstitch

If you own a coverstitch machine, you are likely already an experienced sewer, as this is a more specialised piece of equipment. A coverstitch machine is primarily used for hemming stretch garments and creates a very professional finish. It is more commonly associated with activewear and swimwear, but it can also be used for lingerie hems, bindings, and certain seams.

If you do not own a coverstitch machine but like the look of coverstitching, you can use a twin needle on a domestic sewing machine to achieve a similar appearance. While it may not perform exactly the same way as a coverstitch, it can still produce a neat and wearable result.

Final thoughts

Sewing lingerie does not require a large collection of specialised machines. A basic domestic sewing machine with a zig zag stitch is more than enough to get started and to create beautiful, functional garments. Additional machines such as overlockers and coverstitch machines can enhance your finishes as your skills grow, but they are optional rather than essential. By learning how to use the stitches already available on your machine, you can build a strong foundation for lingerie sewing at home.

Happy sewing!