What type of thread to use when sewing lingerie and intimates
The thread I love for sewing lingerie and underwear after 10 years running my own label
After more than ten years of sewing lingerie and underwear for my own label, I have made my fair share of mistakes when it comes to purchasing thread. I have snapped seams, battled skipped stitches and learned the hard way that not all thread is created equal. Below you will find my most important lessons and top tips for choosing sewing thread specifically for lingerie and underwear.
When sewing lingerie and underwear, the thread you choose is just as important as the fabric or pattern. These garments sit directly against the skin and are worn for long periods of time. They need to stretch, recover and move with the body without causing irritation or failure at the seams. A poor thread choice can lead to broken stitches, uncomfortable seams, or garments that simply do not last.
As a general rule, lingerie and underwear require thread with some degree of stretch. This stretch allows seams to flex as the body moves and helps the garment withstand repeated wear and washing. Thread that has no give may hold initially, but over time it is far more likely to snap or cause puckering in stretch fabrics.
Sewing on a plain sewing machine
When sewing lingerie on a plain sewing machine, a high quality general purpose polyester thread is the best choice. Polyester thread has a small amount of natural stretch, which makes it suitable for sewing knit and stretch fabrics commonly used in lingerie.
Cotton thread, on the other hand, has very little stretch and is more likely to snap when used in close fitting garments. For this reason, cotton thread is best avoided for lingerie projects.
Thread quality matters greatly in underwear making. This is one area where spending a little more is worthwhile, as higher quality threads run smoothly through the machine, produce more consistent stitches and are less likely to snag or skip. A low quality thread can cause frustration during sewing and compromise the durability of the finished garment.
Recommended polyester threads I love
Gutermann Sew All
Gutermann Mara 150
Mettler polyester thread
Overlocker or serger
The most comfortable thread for overlocking lingerie is woolly nylon or woolly polyester. This type of thread is soft, fluffy and highly elastic, making it especially comfortable against the skin. It is often used in the loopers of the overlocker where the stitches come into direct contact with the body.
Woolly thread can be more expensive and harder to find, so there is no pressure to use it when starting out. A good quality corespun polyester overlocking thread is a perfectly suitable alternative. Corespun thread has more stretch than standard spun polyester and provides strength and flexibility for lingerie seams.
As your skills develop and you sew more lingerie, you may choose to add woolly thread to your supplies for an extra level of comfort and finish.
Overlocking tip
If you are new to using an overlocker, one important detail to keep in mind is stitch orientation. The right side of the overlocking should always sit against the skin. This is the side facing you while the garment is in the machine. The wrong side of the overlocking can feel rough or scratchy, which can reduce comfort in a finished undergarment.
Hand sewing
For hand sewn details or decorative embellishments, silk thread is a beautiful option to consider. Silk thread has a subtle sheen and a very smooth finish, which allows it to glide easily through delicate fabrics without snagging. It is ideal for attaching lace, appliqué, or small decorative elements where precision and finish matter.
Specialty and decorative threads
There are a few specialty threads that can add interest or function to lingerie projects.
Shirring elastic thread is an elastic thread used to create gathered sections in a garment. Shirring has a soft, nostalgic aesthetic and can be an effective way to introduce stretch into woven or low stretch fabrics.
For sheer fabrics or appliqué work, invisible thread can be useful. This fine, clear thread allows stitches to disappear visually, making it ideal when you want the construction to be discreet and unobtrusive.
Final thoughts
Choosing the right thread supports both the comfort and longevity of handmade lingerie. By prioritising stretch, softness and quality, you ensure that your garments move with the body and remain comfortable over time. With a small but thoughtful selection of threads in your sewing kit, you will be well equipped to create underwear that feels as good to wear as it does to make.