Reducing bulk: The key to a professional finish on your lingerie sewing project

Techniques for reducing bulk when sewing lingerie and intimates

Reducing bulk is key to achieving a great finish on lingerie, intimates and underwear. It is a secret I think many experienced sewers know, but do not often talk about. All those seams where lace, elastic, lining and thread converge can quickly become very bulky. This not only affects the look of the garment, but can also make sewing through multiple layers difficult and frustrating.

After more than ten years of sewing lingerie, I have learned a few simple techniques that make a huge difference. These tips will help take your lingerie projects from a hobby finish to a more professional result, often with just a few careful snips.

Start with a good pattern

A well drafted pattern with clear sewing instructions is one of the best ways to ensure a well executed design. A good designer will consider areas where bulk is likely to occur and will include guidance on how to manage these areas during construction.

When choosing your first lingerie pattern, it can be helpful to start with a reputable brand that has a strong reputation for quality designs. This can also help you avoid the growing number of poorly drafted or AI generated patterns currently available. I have a selection of beginner friendly lingerie patterns available in my Etsy store if you are looking for a place to start.

Grading the seam

Grading the seam means cutting the layers of a seam to different lengths in order to reduce bulk on a seam that has been sewing using a straight stitch.

For example, imagine you are sewing through four layers of fabric with a one centimetre seam allowance. Sew the seam as usual. Then trim one layer back to around three millimetres. Trim the next layer slightly longer than the first, and continue trimming each layer a little longer than the last. This creates a stepped effect rather than all layers ending at the same point, which significantly reduces thickness.

This technique is especially useful in lingerie where seams are often small, curved and layered with lace or lining.

Trimming excess fabric

When adding elastic to a garment, you will sometimes end up with a small overhang of fabric beyond the stitching line. Leaving this excess can add unnecessary bulk and affect how the elastic sits against the body.

To reduce this, use small snips or appliqué scissors to carefully trim the excess fabric back to the seam line. Take care not to cut into the stitching itself. Working slowly and precisely here can greatly improve the final finish.

Use a block step

Sewing elastic on a domestic machine can sometimes feel like a nightmare. The elastic may snag, the needle may sew in one spot for too many stitches, or the fabric simply refuses to feed through the machine. This is especially common when sewing very small straps or narrow elastic where there is not enough surface area for the machine to grip.

I have encountered this many times, and my solution is something I call a block step. A block step is a small piece of fabric or elastic that is the same width as the piece you are trying to sew. The length should be slightly longer than the length of your machine foot.

To use it, lift your presser foot and place the block step underneath so the foot sits level. Begin sewing on the block step, then push the tricky area of your work right up to the edge of the block step. Continue sewing directly from the block step onto your work, back tacking where needed.

You will find the fabric feeds much more smoothly. This is because the presser foot is level and the feed dogs have something consistent to grip, allowing the machine to move the work through properly.

I should note that block step is a term I made up. I am sure there is a technical name for this technique, but I have not been able to find it yet. I will update this article if I ever discover the official term.