A guide for choosing the right lace for your lingerie sewing project

Choosing the right lace is one of the most important steps in sewing lingerie. With so many styles, constructions and names used across suppliers, it can quickly become confusing to know what will work for your pattern. Understanding the difference between stretch and rigid lace, how lace is constructed, and how it is supplied will help you make more confident fabric choices and expand your options when sourcing materials.

Rigid or stretch?

When shopping for lace, the first thing to determine is whether your pattern calls for a stretch lace or a rigid lace. Once you know this, you can quickly narrow down your options and avoid purchasing a lace that will not work for your project.

Stretch lace

Below are some lace types commonly available with stretch.

• Stretch galloon lace

• Stretch Leavers lace

• Stretch Raschel lace

• Stretch mesh lace

• Stretch tulle lace

• Stretch embroidery lace

• Stretch Chantilly lace

Chantilly and embroidered laces are traditionally non stretch. When labelled as stretch, they are usually made on Raschel machines or combined with elastane. In these cases, the name refers to the style combined with stretch rather than a distinct construction method.

Stretch direction

Stretch lace is available in two way stretch and four way stretch. Always refer to your pattern instructions for specific requirements.

Two way stretch lace is the most common choice for lingerie patterns. The stretch should run around the body to allow for comfort and ease.

Four way stretch lace is more commonly used for technical garments such as sports bras or dancewear, where flexibility is required both around and along the body to allow for a full range of movement.

Rigid lace

Rigid lace has no stretch. It is used where the pattern has been designed to contour and support the body through shaping rather than stretch.

Rigid lace is typically used for cup overlays, cradle pieces, panels and decorative elements, and is often paired with elastics or stretch fabrics elsewhere in the garment.

Below are some lace types commonly available in rigid.

• Chantilly lace

• Leavers lace

• Alençon lace

• Galloon lace

• Raschel lace

• Embroidered tulle lace

• Corded lace

Some of these laces can be very expensive due to the specialised manufacturing techniques used to create them. Lower priced alternatives or dupes are often available, though this may come with a compromise in quality or fibre content.

Wide lace or lace trim?

Both stretch and rigid laces are available as wide lace or lace trims. Once you are familiar with lace types, the next step is deciding which format you need.

Wide lace refers to lace constructed as a roll of fabric.

Lace trim refers to lace constructed as a narrow band in varying widths. It is often used when you want to feature the decorative edge of the lace within a garment.

Whether you use wide lace or lace trim will depend on your pattern. Patterns with decorative lace edges often call for lace trim, but wide lace can sometimes be substituted with careful cutting. Similarly, a wide lace trim may occasionally be used in place of wide lace if the width is sufficient.

The key consideration is ensuring the lace is wide enough for the pattern pieces, or that you purchase enough trim to adapt it to your design.

Final thoughts

I hope this article helps improve your understanding of lace terminology and makes sourcing lace easier. Having a strong knowledge of lace construction and naming conventions can significantly expand your design and supplier options.

For example, searching for “stretch lace” may return general results, while searching for “stretch galloon lace” often leads to suppliers who label their stock more specifically. I recommend keeping a list of suppliers you come across, along with brief notes on what they stock or what caught your attention. It is surprisingly easy to forget a great supplier if you do not use them regularly.