6 alternative materials you can use to make lingerie, intimates and underwear

It is becoming increasingly difficult to find underwear that is not made from synthetic fibres or synthetic blends and just as difficult to find pieces that truly last. You may also be looking for a more affordable alternative to expensive lace or store bought underwear, or simply wanting to step away from mass produced options altogether.

One of the most liberating aspects of making your own underwear is the freedom to choose materials that feel good on your body and align with your values. Below are six alternative fabric options that work beautifully for underwear making and offer comfort, longevity and creativity beyond the mainstream.

Merino wool

Superfine merino wool or a lightweight option around 150 gsm is an excellent alternative to cotton or synthetic fabrics and every year I make myself a new set of merino underwear for my day to day use. Merino wool feels soft against the skin, runs cooler than cotton, and wicks moisture effectively. It also naturally inhibits bacterial growth far better than cotton or plastic based fibres, making it ideal for everyday underwear.

When chosen in a fine weight, merino wool is breathable, comfortable, and suitable for close fitting garments without feeling bulky or restrictive.

Repurposed cotton jersey

This is one of the most accessible and cost effective options available. Old t-shirts, leggings, or pyjamas can easily be transformed into new underwear with very little waste.

An old band t-shirt turned into a pair of knickers with a matching crop top is a personal favourite. Once you start looking, you may realise you already have a surprising amount of 100% cotton jersey sitting unused in your wardrobe, ready to be repurposed into something new.

Repurposed stretch lace or mesh

Stretch lace or mesh garments that no longer work in your wardrobe can be given a second life through lingerie making. If you have a lace or mesh top hidden away because it no longer suits your style, this fabric can be reworked into underwear that feels intentional and wearable again.

These materials work beautifully as the base fabric for underwear or as inserts combined with other fabrics, adding texture and visual interest without the cost of buying new materials.

Silk satin (silk charmeuse)

For a woven fabric option, silk satin is ideal for slips, camisoles, chemises, and panties. It has become increasingly rare to find silk underwear in mainstream stores, which is why it deserves a place on this alternative materials list.

Wearing silk underwear is one of life’s small luxuries and can bring a quiet sense of indulgence to everyday dressing. For a more ethical option, consider peace silk or tussah silk. This type of silk has a slightly textured, matte, and irregular finish and is produced without harming silkworms.

Hemp jersey

Hemp jersey is unlikely to be found in conventional fabric stores, but it is often available through specialist hemp retailers or boutique fabric suppliers. It is commonly blended with cotton and spandex to add softness and stretch, and is usually available in earthy tones that can be dyed using either chemical or natural dyes.

Hemp plants are naturally resilient and require far less water and pesticides than cotton, making hemp a highly sustainable fabric choice. Hemp also has natural antibacterial properties, which makes it especially well suited to close fitting garments like underwear.

Tencel Knit

When I did my post graduate study back in 2010 I was obsessed with Tencel knits. They are silky soft and super absorbent, making them very comfortable to wear. Tencel is a soft, sustainable and breathable fabric made from wood pulp. Its sustainability comes from the closed loop manufacturing process and the use of sustainable tree crops. Tencel is a brand name, so you can also look for Lyocell/Modal knits mixed with elastic as an alternative.

Choosing alternative materials for underwear making is about comfort, longevity, sustainability, and reclaiming control over what you wear closest to your body. Whether you are repurposing what you already own or seeking out fabrics that challenge mainstream norms, these materials offer beautiful and functional options for creating underwear that feels intentional and personal. If you start with a good pattern the possibilities are far broader and more exciting than anything found on a store shelf.